Sitting at Pomellato‘s Milan headquarters in front of three panels of mood boards detailing many of the brand’s greatest hits from chains in the ’70s to intricate collars in the ’80s and burst of colored cabochon stones in the ’90s, Vincenzo Castaldo, the company’s creative director, and Stefano Cortecci, Pomellato’s gem master and director of the stone department, have an easy back-and-forth rapport when speaking about the brand. The latest high jewelry collection, Collezione 1967 (named after the founding of the house), highlights those decades in three chapters of stunning creations. Their symbiosis reflects the strong relationship they’ve built over roughly two decades and counting of working together.
Courtesy: Pomellato
Sometimes its designs like the bracelet or Cascade necklaces that informs the stones Cortecci searches for and other times the stone directs the creation. Such was the case for a drop-dead gorgeous 55.96-carat Tanzanite in an unusual irregular-cut and deeply rich hue where the 78 modules of pavé-set diamonds of the necklace necklace and the cradle for the stone had to be designed to highlight the unusual shape of the stone. “Most of the time, we are not looking for traditional cuts,” says Castaldo. That can mean anything from unusual cuts to stones acquired for imperfection rather than perfection such as the 27.83-carat Paraíba tourmaline with an interesting pattern of inclusions on the Chain Drop necklace. Often times, as in the case of the Tanzanite, the stone might be cut even more—predominately in Idar-Oberstein, Germany, a town known for its expert gem cutting—to capture the right amount of edge. “We are not Place Vendôme!” says Castaldo with a laugh.
Indeed, the company is all about fun with a dash of edgy coolness that serves to highlight important elements without overpowering them. Take, for instance, a trio of rings inspired by ’90s-era Pomellato with sizeable cabochons in peridot, Mandarin garnet, and rubellite set atop white diamonds on 18-karat rose gold bands that are held in place by claw-like prongs with pavé gems such as tsavorites, orange-treated sapphires, and rubies to match.
Pomellato is, relatively speaking, a young house—especially in the world of high jewelry, which it officially entered in 2020. But the timing of this retrospective feels pitch-perfect. The ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s are all enjoying a revival across fashion, watches, and even furniture design. For Pomellato, those decades weren’t just chapters—they were the blueprint. Each era saw the brand define codes so distinctive they still resonate today. Revisiting them now through the lens of high jewelry is only natural. After all, in the world of luxury, evolution often looks like incremental reinvention—a recipe for staying power that has nearly alway proved successful for some of the world’s top luxury brands.
